Quick Start Camera Guide + Link to full manual
SONY ALPHA 3000 USER GUIDE
The Sony Alpha 3000 looks like a DSLR, but it actually is closer to a video camera in an SLR body, AKA a “mirrorless” camera. It records a 20MB still image (5456 x 3632 pixels!) and can be set for JPEG or RAW + JPEG.
The camera comes with a battery, a charger, a lens cap, a lens hood and a shoulder strap. The lens has a UV filter, which can be cleaned without damaging the lens. There are two kinds of chargers, one where you plug in the camera, and the other where you just put the battery in the charger, a better idea. The batteries should last through more than one day of shooting. But they should be charged at least once a week.
The camera stores images on an SD card, which is in a slot as shown. Be careful with the door covering the card. Remove the card by pushing it in, and springing it out.
The Sony Alpha 3000 looks like a DSLR, but it actually is closer to a video camera in an SLR body, AKA a “mirrorless” camera. It records a 20MB still image (5456 x 3632 pixels!) and can be set for JPEG or RAW + JPEG.
The camera comes with a battery, a charger, a lens cap, a lens hood and a shoulder strap. The lens has a UV filter, which can be cleaned without damaging the lens. There are two kinds of chargers, one where you plug in the camera, and the other where you just put the battery in the charger, a better idea. The batteries should last through more than one day of shooting. But they should be charged at least once a week.
The camera stores images on an SD card, which is in a slot as shown. Be careful with the door covering the card. Remove the card by pushing it in, and springing it out.
Side door for SD card and charger.
Using the Camera
The viewfinder is electronic, giving you the same image you see on the back viewscreen. There is a button on the top right to switch between the two ways of viewing next to the Mode Wheel. (see below) The viewfinder is good for situations that are too bright for the rear screen, but not great for critical viewing.
The lens zooms from rather wide to normal focal lengths, from 18-55mm. It is not a fast lens, maxing out at f3.5 on the wide, and f5.6 on the telephoto end.
There are easy adjustments with the control wheel for both f-stop, and for shutter speed.
The sensor is a standard APS-C 23mm sensor, similar to that on a Canon 7D. This means the camera can give a 'film look' depth of field under the right circumstances.
The viewfinder is electronic, giving you the same image you see on the back viewscreen. There is a button on the top right to switch between the two ways of viewing next to the Mode Wheel. (see below) The viewfinder is good for situations that are too bright for the rear screen, but not great for critical viewing.
The lens zooms from rather wide to normal focal lengths, from 18-55mm. It is not a fast lens, maxing out at f3.5 on the wide, and f5.6 on the telephoto end.
There are easy adjustments with the control wheel for both f-stop, and for shutter speed.
The sensor is a standard APS-C 23mm sensor, similar to that on a Canon 7D. This means the camera can give a 'film look' depth of field under the right circumstances.
Setting the camera to Manual (M on the dial on the top right) allows you to control both aperture
(f stop) and shutter speed. Both are controlled by first clicking the control wheel on the bottom
edge and then spinning it. Pushing the wheel toggles the two controls, showing you the one
you have control over in yellow.
You also have control over the ISO, the measure of the camera's sensitivity to light, clicking the control dial on the right side, and then spinning the dial.
You also have control over the ISO, the measure of the camera's sensitivity to light, clicking the control dial on the right side, and then spinning the dial.
A good place to start is to set the ASA fairly low. This could be ISO 100 outdoors, and ISO 400
or 800 indoors. Then set the shutter speed to 1/50th, which is standard. After that, you can play
with the f stop, going from f5.6 to f8, to f11, and f16.
The camera has a “steady shot” compensation for camera shake, which should probably be left in place for video recording.
Becky's Settings/"manual"
Link to full manual: https://docs.sony.com/release//ILCE3000.pdf
The camera has a “steady shot” compensation for camera shake, which should probably be left in place for video recording.
Becky's Settings/"manual"
- Format the memory card
- Check your battery power
- File Format: AVCHD; image size > movie > file format
- Recording size: 24p/24M, 1920x1080 which is HD
*they’re actually using the wrong terminology here. It should be 24fps* but choose 24p
image size > movie > recording size
- Aspect Ratio: 16x9; Image size > aspect ratio
- the number at the bottom of the screen is your over/underexposed meter
- Mode: Either Shutter Priority (what we used last week where you change your ISO to change your f/stop and get correct exposure and desired depth of field) or Manual (where you choose the f/stop and ISO and look at the numbers on bottom of the back screen to tell you if you’re properly exposed or not). Shutter Priority is easier.
- Changing the exposure settings on Shutter Priority: move the control dial on the back and adjust your ISO until you get the desired depth of field and the combination of f/stop and ISO that’s correctly exposed. *If the numbers at the bottom of the screen are showing anything other than 0, your exposure compensation is on and you need to change that by pressing the +/- button and turning the control dial*
- Shutter Speed = 1/50th (because we’re shooting 24fps) change by ???
*it’s easy to change this accidentally when you’re scrolling through so check it periodically*
- Changing the exposure settings in Manual: For aperture/fstop, press the +/- button while rotating the control dial. Change the iso by hitting the ISO button and rotating the control dial. Check the exposure by the numbers at the bottom. You want to get it to zero by changing your exposure
- Aperture Explained:
- Shutter Speed Explained:
- ISO explained:
I
- ISO: Try not to go over ISO 400 but if you’re inside you’ll probably need to go to 800. Outside it will probably be around 100 on a sunny day
- Focus = manual; camera>AF/MF
- MF focus assist (the zoom thing): off
- Peaking: on (when the image is in focus, the red lines appear on what’s in focus: Setup>Peaking level>High
Setup>Peaking level>Red
1 minute Youtube demo on peaking in this camera: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Is7pNoaOX4k
- White Balance = Auto
- Metering Mode set to Multi:
- For Assignment 3, we'll be setting the White Balance (instead of using AutoWB)
- WHITE BALANCECheck your White Balance to make sure you’re matching to the quality of light (i.e. daylight, tungsten, fluorescent e.g.) of the environment that you’re in. Even better, do a custom white balance by taking a picture of a piece of white paper in the environment where you are shooting, and set to that. Remember, if you are changing environments (especially from indoor to outdoor), you will have to change your white balance!
Download and Backup (20 minutes)
Make your folders and download the footage onto each partner’s hard drive. It’s important to set up an orderly folder structure from the beginning, before you start editing. If you’re new to Premiere, I recommend the following:
- On your hard drive, create a folder called “Hunter”
- Inside Hunter, create a folder called “160 MEDP-Film”
- Inside 160 MEDP-Film, create a folder called “Assignment-1”
- Inside Assignment 1 folder, create a folder called “Video”
- Inside Video, create a folder called “180215-Shoot1”
- Put your memory card in the back of the computer, it will probably show up as “No Name,” and you can navigate to it through your Finder window
- On your memory card, go to the “Private” folder
- Copy the whole AVCHD file into your “180215-Shoot1” folder
Hint: it’s quicker if you do this whole thing on one partner’s hard drive, then copy that entire Hunter folder onto the other partner’s hard drive
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